Thursday, 8 July 2021

Greg Noll - d. 28th June 2021

Beyond the reef,
the last great swell 

is forming. A man,

half boat, half bull,

paddles out to meet

himself, tougher than

the wood of his board,

waxed with self-belief,

death just one more

wipeout far from shore.


Read about Greg Noll here



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